Every meal tells a story

by Michael Lesser

When I was asked to write an article about Free Food, I started thinking about how I got here.

How did I get to be the head chef at Free Food with my own kitchen, creating multicourse, Michelin-style meals with a staff of loyal community volunteers, interns, and local volunteer chefs, making use of high quality rescued, donated food? How did I go from preparing meals in NYC apartment kitchens to inheriting a new kitchen designed by Massimo Bottura’s Food for Soul nonprofit?

I was an adventurous kid and sought out adventures that had some level of danger, and risk, which at times had severe consequences. Early on I discovered there was something about these high-energy, risky activities that relieved me of my troubled adolescent thoughts and opened my mind up into a clear creative space where I just knew what to do next.

What I had stumbled upon and what was much later studied and written about by the author Steven Kotler, was my own way of entering the flow state. As I matured I realized that breaking laws, trespassing, and in general my transgressive nature needed to change. I subconsciously gravitated to jobs that provided the intensity needed for me to leave my thoughts behind and enter the flow state where I felt at peace. These jobs were all fast paced, requiring focused concentration and also had extreme consequences, penalties for failing and rewards for success.

The heat, pressure and chaos of the kitchen became my extreme sports playground. Waiters yelling orders to expediters. Chefs yelling whatever was on their mind and me as a line cook training my ears, eyes, and felt sense to respond in pitch perfect resonance, handing off the plate, “order up!” then without missing a beat on to the next order. At the end of the night, after all the yelling and chaos, we all sat down together for a family meal. As the intensity of the service period ended so did the harsh communication. Apologies and laughter were exchanged. We’d become part of each other’s stories and experiences in a surprisingly intimate way.

That’s my culinary adventure story. But also beneath all the chaos and all the jobs I’ve had, the one constant thing is the drive to do something meaningful, helpful, and feel my impact on others in a positive way.

The chefs and kitchen interns of Free Food also have their own stories. Our justice-impacted interns come to us at first as a way to reduce their sentences, I hope they also will find something else for themselves in the kitchen.

Recently we connected with Workforce 1, a city-funded jobs resource center and scheduled a job search and interview information session for the Exodus Alternatives to Incarceration participants. They learned that restaurant and hospitality workers are among the most sought after, with a variety of job opportunities in those fields.

We’ve also recently started working with furloughed interns who, although still incarcerated, are near the end of their sentences and have permission to work outside prison walls. The work is physically demanding. They clean up my kitchen, keep order in the stock rooms, and pitch in wherever needed. These interns are among the happiest and most grateful people I’ve crossed paths with.

Another first for us was our inaugural Chef’s lab series meal. We have had special events where we host high-profile chefs preparing a meal in our kitchen. This time we planned and prepared the entire meal, which featured the influence of African cuisine, with our own chefs and kitchen staff. At the end of the evening I was awed by the beauty, exquisite presentation, and loving care of every step of the meal and moved by what the Free Food team had accomplished and how far we have come to be able to so gracefully create this event.

There are a variety of local chefs who volunteer their time. One chef, a veteran with PTSD and alcohol issues comes to the kitchen often because it takes his mind off of things, he doesn’t drink while with us and connects with students and enjoys his time. He also brings in ingredients from other pantries and generously provides specialty ingredients needed.

At the end of the night, after the service period is over and the patrons trickle out, we all sit down for a family meal together just as I did when I was a line cook and aspiring chef.

We exchange replies to prompts like, what was your favorite moment or what did you like best about your night. The impromptu replies reveal something intimate about each of us in relation to one another.Often laughter ,and apologies are shared, and at times, tears shed.

After a three year long culinary journey that included community, connection, burns and bruises, and intimate partnerships, my experience as the Free Food Chef has exceeded my expectations, and it’s time for this flow state pioneer to hand over the reins to a new chef. My Free Food adventure will continue on as its Culinary and Training Director. I have so much to look back on and much more ahead of me.

It’s taken 3 years for chefs of the required caliber to even consider working with us. Over the past month I’ve worked alongside many amazing chefs trying them out. They all had their own flavors, culinary skills, and dedication to contribute. There was one chef whose name was mentioned over the past year,who captured our hearts as well as our pallets with not just her food but also her compassionate generous nature and her ability to work with the diversity of volunteers and interns of our Free Food family.

Kayla comes to Free Food with her own stories as a Harlem resident who knows the neighborhood and her own culinary adventures. While working together I noticed her superb cooking chops but also her downhome, humble nature rare among high-level chefs. When I speak about Free Food it feels like she’s a person, a dear friend or relative. I notice that look of excitement and reverence in our new chef’s eyes whenever she talks about the meals she would like to make for us, or the prospect of working with our kitchen skills students, interns, and volunteers.

Chef Michael brings with him a passion for the culinary arts, love of all types of food, and creates memorable dining experiences for our Free Food patrons.