Chef’s Lab Dinner at Free Food, in the Heart of Harlem

by Bob Wilms

In the heart of Harlem, in the most wonderful basement of the Emanuel AME on 119th Street, a culinary and cultural phenomenon is taking shape. Harlem Chef’s Lab dinner series, directed by myself, General Manager Matt Sherman, and Culinary Director Michael Lesser, isn’t just about exquisite food; it’s a platform for dialogue, community building, and social change. At the forefront of this movement is Executive Chef Kayla Phillips, whose vision extends far beyond the kitchen.

This isn’t just another dinner; it’s an experience enriched by conversations on food justice, art, and community, featuring community activists, artists, and the perspectives of everyday people touched by this initiative. The Free Food program held twice a week feeds the larger community while Harlem Chef’s Lab gathers a broad spectrum of supporters to raise awareness and funds for the program.

Tables were pulled together into two long seating areas to create a shared experience and foster conversation among all of the guests while an attentive staff served dish after dish of delights from Phillips, Lesser, and Chef Levar Fulmore.

Chef Phillips brings a unique perspective, shaped by her journey from fine dining to a deeper calling.

“Presenting food with dignity. Presenting ingredients that people may have never had allows people to dream. Allowing people to dream means liberation.”

After working with Ghetto Gastro, Chef Phillips wanted to start a free dinner program to elevate the experience of people who grew up on church box food.

“Food justice is not just food access. Freedom is not just food access. Freedom is the ability to dream, to see things bigger than you thought they would be.”
– Executive Chef Kayla Phillips

“My hope for Refettorio, for Free Food, for the dinner service that we do here two nights a week is genuinely to let people experience creativity as a means of liberation,” Chef Phillips told us after the applause for the team’s efforts finally subsided.

The evening’s focus on food justice and community was capped off with an educational talk between Omari West and Black Panther Brother Shep. Brother Shep became a member of the New York chapter of the Black Panther Party in 1973 at the age of 19. In December 2012, he assisted with “Serve the People Day,” sharing free food and clothing with the public. He wanted everyone to understand the importance of women in the movement, outnumbering the men two to one. “I know they did, because a woman trained me,” Brother Shep told his fellow diners.

Today, Brother Shep continues to serve his community in the Bronx while connecting with other neighborhoods all across New York City and beyond.

Harlem Chef’s Lab is really about the connections made and the conversations sparked over a great meal. A couple new to the cold winter of NYC ventured to the dinner after hearing about the Free Food Harlem community. Sharing a meal with seventy strangers can be impactful. As Stanley put it, “There’s things that we transactionally share around the table that we don’t share in any other space.”
His wife, Krie added, “I am a student who studies food and community and love, and so the theme of the event just piqued my interest. I’m very curious how the organization functions. How it feeds people? How it cares for community?”

This sentiment is echoed by others, noting the unique atmosphere that fosters vulnerability, sharing, and a sense of collective purpose.

Harlem Chef’s Lab is more than just a dinner series. With Chef Phillips at the helm and a community of passionate individuals lending their voices and talents, this culinary revolution is just getting started.

Free Food Harlem is a place where givers and receivers find fulfillment around the table, nourished by meals that make a meaningful impact on the health of our food system and move us towards a more connected and compassionate community. There are a number of ways to connect with their community-based programming including volunteer opportunities, corporate and individual giving, program sponsorship, and events.

Bob Wilms is the Board President of Unconditional Freedom and Free Food Harlem.